Ski Boots form the essential link between you and your Skis. The
Ski Boots should connect perfectly to your Ski Bindings transferring
all your body movements and pressure shifts directly to your Skis.
A good Ski Boot should have a snug fit with enough inside padding
to prevent injuries and bruises but with a tough outer shell to protect
you from overstretching. Choosing a good Ski Boot is essential for
your Skiing Safety and enjoyment. In this section, we will look into
some guidelines in buying Ski Boots:
Ski Boots - Components and Features
Before you go buying ski boots, you will want to learn what to look
for in a skiing boot and tell the differences apart.
* It is important to know the Ski Boot Components and Features as
well as the different Ski Boot Types before heading to the Ski shop.
* As explained in our Ski Binding Buying Guide, Ski Boots and Ski
Bindings are often a combination where not every Ski Boot is suitable
for each type of Ski Binding and the other way around. Check and make
sure that the binding-boot combination is the correct one, especially
when you need a heel-free system.
* Fitting the Ski Boots correctly may take up a lot of time. If
possible, book an appointment so you do not have to wait for a long
time.
To get the Proper Ski Boot Fit, do the following:
* Put on special Skiing socks or at least the thick socks that you
would wear when you would go out Skiing. Do not try your Ski Boots
with regular socks or even two pairs of socks. You might not think
so but the added thickness of the socks matter a lot when it comes
to the size and fit of your Ski Boot.
* Insert your foot into the Ski Boot and fasten the clips securely.
* Your toes should lightly touch the front end of your Ski Boot
when you stand straight. However, your foot should move backwards
pressing your heel into the heel cup when you bend your knees and
your toes loose from the front of the Ski Boot.
* Make sure you feel no single pressure points or other painful
spots. If you feel them now already, you will definitely feel them
when they come under the added pressure of actual Skiing.
* Make sure you feel an evenly distributed snug fit all around your
foot not only at the soles of your feet but also on top. The same
goes for the upper Ski Boot. Make sure your ankles and calves are
connecting well to your Ski Boot but not too tight. Make sure your
muscles in your calves are not restricted in their movements.
* Check that you have firm support around the instep of the Ski
Boot, around the ankles, and lower legs. They should stop you from
bending these body parts too much. You should be able to bend your
ankles forward with increasing support as you bend them further. Make
sure that you can bend to your natural limit and no further. Likewise,
bear in mind that as you bend forward, you should feel pressure evenly
distributed along your shin and not on a few single spots.
* Listen to the salesperson or to the Ski Boot fitter. Give him/her
some comments on what you really feel about the Ski Boots you are
wearing. He/she can give you more pointers in finding the appropriate
pair for you.
Choosing the Ski Boots that will give you the Proper Fit definitely
entails a lot of time and patience on your part. Ski Boots are so
important that you cannot just buy the Ski Boots that you want. Be
acquainted with all there is to know about Ski Boots before heading
to the Ski shop. You will eventually appreciate the time you spent
in choosing the Ski Boots as you hit the slopes.
More Boot Fitting Info
Ski boots can be a PAIN! What can you do about it? Find a ski specialty
shop and a good boot fitter.
THE BOOT FITTER
Ask for an experienced boot fitter. He must have an understanding
of anatomy and biomechanics (movement of joints) to recognize your
specific foot type and match it to the correct boot last (shape).
If your bootfitter is also a PSIA ski instructor, so much the better.
He should ask you your height, weight, age, athletic ability, how
much do you ski, and where do you ski. These questions help him evaluate
your aggressiveness, ability, and approach to skiing. This information
is critical for matching your interest and ability to your equipment
selection Boots come generic in shape and need to be modified to your
unique foot.
THE RIGHT BOOT
You want a boot that will be comfortable, of course, and that will
help you improve your skiing. The boot should be adequate for now,
and work well as you improve. Beginners, low intermediates, and non-aggressive
skiers need a fairly soft forward flexing boot. These will be more
"forgiving" by not transmitting all your mistakes to your
skis. An aggressive or advanced skier needs a stiffer boot that will
provide "sensitivity" to movement changes. From the information
you provide, your fitter will be able to choose the best performance
model. It used to be true, that if you were looking for comfort, your
first choice would have been a "rear-entry" boot. That is
not true any more.. Why? Because front-entry overlap boots have been
significantly improved. There has been an upsurge in their sales over
the last five years due to the development of more moldable liner
materials. Front-entry boots perform better because the mechanics
of the boot far more accurately matches the biomechanical movement
of the foot and ankle.
THE SIZING
Your boot fitter will use a few different sizing devices to determine
your approximate boot size. This will give him a place to start. The
next step is important, he should remove the liner from the shell
and have you place your foot into the shell. With your toes touching
the front end of the shell, he will check to see how much room you
have behind your heel (Shell length). There should be just less then
one inch for recreational skiers, even less for more aggressive, accomplished
skiers. Next he will check for side to side movement in the forefoot
area (Shell width). If you buy your boots too big, the liner will
not take a mold of your foot. Then, after a few days of skiing, your
feet will begin to "rattle around", requiring you to buckle
your boots tighter. But, that will not prove to be tight enough either,
so you buckle them even tighter. Now you have created a new problem;
a boot that is too narrow. Presto! Your feet are ice cold, and are
painfully cramped. If your boots are the correct size, there is one
other reason they would feel loose; collapsing arches. This is caused
by excessive pronation. Usually your boot fitter will recognize this
when he first inspects your foot, but sometimes it is not that obvious.
If this is your problem, custom insoles, or sportsmedicine ski orthoses
is the answer. Ski orthoses should only be gotten from a doctor who
is also trained in the mechanics of skiing and has many years of boot
fitting experience. These devices cost between $50 and $225. A custom
insole will keep your foot properly centered and somewhat supported
in the boot. The more expensive orthoses gives full support to the
foot, and also corrects abnormal foot, leg and knee alignment problems.
This in turn prevents sore feet, ankles and shins, and helps to prevent
excessive knee strain. Skiing biomechanics are completely different
from running and walking (gait cycle) biomechanics. For this reason,
never put your running or walking orthoses (if you have them) in your
ski boots. They are balanced for gait cycle biomechanics.
THE "TRY ON"
Be sure to put on a pair of light weight SKI socks. (The best I have
tried are "Dri-Stride" by Dahlgren.) Most agree, thinner
is better. Thick socks will crush the foot. A properly fitted boot
will go a long way in keeping your feet warm. (But, if your feet are
cold no matter what you do, then there are some very good boot heaters
("Hotronics") that can be installed with little difficulty.)
Now, put the boots on. At first, your toes will most likely touch
the front end. If the boots are the correct size, this is to be expected!
Buckle the boots and press your knees forward. You will find that
your toes pull back from the end. Be patient. Your toes will have
a lot more room in 10-15 minutes
THE "BREAK-IN"
Wear your boots for 10-15 minutes, then take them off and walk around
the store for a while. Why? Because under the pressure of a new boot
your circulation dwindles and your feet will tingle and swell. When
you take the boots off circulation quickly returns. Do this two or
three times during the fitting. (Take a minimum of an hour.) Move
your knees back and forth, and side to side, to simulate skiing. If
you stand still your feet will go to "sleep". Each time
you put the boots back on they should feel roomier and more comfortable.
During the break-in, the boots will form a deeper heel pocket, thus
pulling your toes even farther away from the front of the boot. You
should notice that your toes have more room, yet the rest of the boot
still feels quite tight. At the end of an hour, pressure points will
be obvious. Tight spots are to be expected until your foot has time
to press the moldable liner away from any bony prominences. Your boot
fitter can make the necessary minor adjustments, but should refrain
from making major ones until you have had a chance to ski. Go to a
local area to test them before heading 1000 miles away from you boot
fitter. - or take him along! Remember, your boots must not feel loose
when you leave the store. They will "grow" larger as they
mold to your foot during skiing.
The last step will be for the fitter to adjust the cuff alignment.
This allows the boot cuff to match your leg angle as it meets the
ankle. If your fitter determines that your legs are fairly straight,
you might not need this feature, but if you have a more pronounced
problem, cuff alignment and canting the ski might be necessary.
CANTING
A word of caution: Canting of skis can be tricky. There has been renewed
interest in canting. A recently published article suggests canting
can be a "cure" for most performance problems. This is just
not so, and has been causing more problems then it has solved. A very
careful accessment is required in the ski shop, and sometimes also
on snow.
Now, go skiing. It will take at least 4-6 days of skiing to break
in the liner. Return to your boot fitter as necessary. He would be
surprised if you did not need adjustments! Good luck!
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